Category Archives: Places

From Napa California

“We got red and white. Which one you wont?” Not what you want to hear at a bar in the heart of America’s wine country.  Must have winced. “They’re Mondaby.” I didn’t ask if she meant Mondavi.

“I won’t. Beer?” I said, playing off her mispronunciation of “want” earlier. I didn’t expect her to catch the subtle jibe. I was rewarded when she didn’t miss a beat and described their selection of bottles. Sometimes it’s little games that get you through.

I settled on a local brew I’d never heard of and sat back to imbibe the local flavor. Of the brew and of the bar. The Green Door is definitely a townie spot. Those are hit-and-miss affairs depending on the night. Mondays are a miss.

So I continued to trek toward town. Over the interstate. Past the Butter Creme Bakery, closed but still fragrant from a day of pumping out pastries. Heading toward downtown Napa is a sprawling series of sleepy little streets that look residential but which host professionals 9-5 during the week and silence on the weekends.

The downtown area is alive like a resort town tends to be on any given night. Mid week, not on or off season, a mix if full and part time locals and tourists sit and stroll along the sidewalks.

Downtown Joe’s Brewery beckons me in for a pint (12oz really) and to soak in more atmosphere. It’s a lite version of the last place. More upscale, the locals aren’t as drunk and are younger and there are a few fresh faces who don’t spend every hour and dollar here. Some in this room will doubtless end up at The Green Door someday.

The town reminds me of many I’ve visited. Older place that has seen a revival in recent years. Quaint redone buildings downtown, new places built to strict codes, gorgeous restored homes from the turn of the century or before, upscale restaurants, suburbs inside the official outskirts. And more police than crime.

Old women and girls on bikes populate the dimly lit street I’m walking along. A testament to the town’s safety. Mostly quiet and dark excepting the occasional car, the skies are alight with twinkles of suns whose light may have been snuffed out millions of years ago. Trees as dark silhouettes against a slightly brighter sky. This is Main Street a couple of blocks from the city center.

On the Road Again

Traveling again. To Barbados for Brian’s wedding. Haven’t booked a place to stay yet, I should probably look into that. But I also don’t want to miss the USvUK World Cup match, so I’m conflicted. I’m posting this from the plane, by the way. Skype doesn’t work too well (high bandwidth, latency and jitter), but I can text folks! It’s pretty darn cool.

I Miss Traveling

It snowed about 4″ over the weekend here. It was really cool! It made me  realize that people were right when they said that snow is cool unless  you have to live in it. It’s been too long since I’ve really traveled  anywhere. I went to DC for a few days last week but that wasn’t really much of a trip.

I was a booth babe for Blackhat DC and spent most of my time in the  hotel. I did get to hang out with some cool people from work though.

All week long I was tryin to find a cheap flight somewhere warm.  FLL MIA LAS PHX ABQ SAn Diego, wherever. No luck. So now I’m here in the snow wishing I were somewhere else. I’d even take going farther north where it’s colder and snowier. Just some place different would be good.

Guinness In Foam

Guinness

Great Travel Tips Videos

I stumbled across a great set of videos over here on Hulu. It’s Rick Steves’ Europe: Travel Skills Special. This three-part video series takes the viewer on a loop around some of the major countries of Europe. Judging from the first few minutes – all I’ve watched so far – it’s very information dense. It’s also geared, at least the first in the series, toward the novice traveler. That’s not a bad thing, but just don’t expect to get a whole lot out of the first few minutes if you’re a grizzled veteran. For presentation, style and substance I give the videos two thumbs up.

While I’ve always considered Rick to be kind of a dork, he’s my kind of dork. And I’m also secretly jealous of him. He seems to do nothing but travel around the best places in the world, smile, and make pithy comments. How can you not love that?

Kicking Surf

DSC_0226

Bird Taking Flight

DSC_0188

Morning Over Kayaks

DSC_0142

Comparing Belgrade and Zagreb

See more posts in the Mystery Trip saga!

Belgrade and Zagreb, capital cities of Serbia and Croatia respectively, have much in common. The cities, as the countries, have a large portion of their history in parallel tracks. Both are Slavic lands and were, for the most part, engulfed in the same empires.

However, Belgrade and Serbia have a slightly less fortunate recent past. In 1999 NATO bombed the capital for two months in retaliation for strikes against Kosovo (now its own fledgling nation). It’s difficult to recover from that quickly. In 2000, citizens took to the streets to overthrow the Milosevic government in a nearly bloodless coup. But this meant temporary destabilization as power changed hands. And Croatia has a popular coastline on the Adriatic Sea to which tourists flock, providing tax revenue for the country.

Both peoples speak what amounts to slightly different dialects of the same language. Serbia prefers the Cyrillic script to Latin, but that seems to be changing. And Serbians seem to prefer affecting a deeper voice, both men and women.

Belgrade seems quite a dirty city in contrast to Zagreb. However, both feel very safe even at night. And both are cheap, though Belgrade moreso.

In both cities, young people congregate on the streets at night. They will either stand around in the pedestrian areas or fill up sidewalk cafes and bars as groups.

Belgrade also doesn’t seem quite as crowded with tourists in the off-season. That’s nice. But this will soon change, I’m sure, as Serbia prepares to enter the Schengen agreement nations. Ironically, Croatia, the better developed and more frequently touristed country, has not become a part of this pact.

Eastern European Rail Travel

See more posts in the Mystery Trip saga!

Traveling by train in Eastern Europe is unpleasant. At best. It’s slow. It’s inconvenient. It’s loud. It’s bumpy. Take the bus instead.

From Budapest to Zagreb I took the train. Meant to be a leisurely 5-6 hour affair, it was closer to eight. After the first hour we were 20 minutes late. I’m not sure how that’s possible.

And we spent about an hour on a bus, going between train stations. Apparently they were working on the track? So we boarded a pair of busses to go this distance. The one I rode on was a real throwback. I could imagine old Tito being proud of it, but since then it had definitely seen some hard times.

But the rail is still good for night trips when you want to nap. It’s cheaper and more comfortable than the bus for that. I was on a night train from Belgrade to Skopje and it was delayed approximately an hour. That gave me more time to sleep.

Again, it was a car that probably saw pretty heavy use under the Marshal’s mid to late term. It had a sink, but it was corroded, rusted and stained. The beds were uncomfortable and old. The sheets were so heavily starched they didn’t fold so much as stack like wood. But I got a night of sleep for less than the cost of a bus trip alone and less than the day train and a hostel.

I suppose the lesson here is that you should know when and whre to use the trains here. Only use them when you want a slow, leisurely stroll through the country. And a cabin that smells like smoke. And a thirty year old mattress.