Category Archives: Places
I Miss Traveling
It snowed about 4″ over the weekend here. It was really cool! It made me realize that people were right when they said that snow is cool unless you have to live in it. It’s been too long since I’ve really traveled anywhere. I went to DC for a few days last week but that wasn’t really much of a trip.
I was a booth babe for Blackhat DC and spent most of my time in the hotel. I did get to hang out with some cool people from work though.
All week long I was tryin to find a cheap flight somewhere warm. FLL MIA LAS PHX ABQ SAn Diego, wherever. No luck. So now I’m here in the snow wishing I were somewhere else. I’d even take going farther north where it’s colder and snowier. Just some place different would be good.
Great Travel Tips Videos
I stumbled across a great set of videos over here on Hulu. It’s Rick Steves’ Europe: Travel Skills Special. This three-part video series takes the viewer on a loop around some of the major countries of Europe. Judging from the first few minutes – all I’ve watched so far – it’s very information dense. It’s also geared, at least the first in the series, toward the novice traveler. That’s not a bad thing, but just don’t expect to get a whole lot out of the first few minutes if you’re a grizzled veteran. For presentation, style and substance I give the videos two thumbs up.
While I’ve always considered Rick to be kind of a dork, he’s my kind of dork. And I’m also secretly jealous of him. He seems to do nothing but travel around the best places in the world, smile, and make pithy comments. How can you not love that?
Comparing Belgrade and Zagreb
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Belgrade and Zagreb, capital cities of Serbia and Croatia respectively, have much in common. The cities, as the countries, have a large portion of their history in parallel tracks. Both are Slavic lands and were, for the most part, engulfed in the same empires.
However, Belgrade and Serbia have a slightly less fortunate recent past. In 1999 NATO bombed the capital for two months in retaliation for strikes against Kosovo (now its own fledgling nation). It’s difficult to recover from that quickly. In 2000, citizens took to the streets to overthrow the Milosevic government in a nearly bloodless coup. But this meant temporary destabilization as power changed hands. And Croatia has a popular coastline on the Adriatic Sea to which tourists flock, providing tax revenue for the country.
Both peoples speak what amounts to slightly different dialects of the same language. Serbia prefers the Cyrillic script to Latin, but that seems to be changing. And Serbians seem to prefer affecting a deeper voice, both men and women.
Belgrade seems quite a dirty city in contrast to Zagreb. However, both feel very safe even at night. And both are cheap, though Belgrade moreso.
In both cities, young people congregate on the streets at night. They will either stand around in the pedestrian areas or fill up sidewalk cafes and bars as groups.
Belgrade also doesn’t seem quite as crowded with tourists in the off-season. That’s nice. But this will soon change, I’m sure, as Serbia prepares to enter the Schengen agreement nations. Ironically, Croatia, the better developed and more frequently touristed country, has not become a part of this pact.
Eastern European Rail Travel
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Traveling by train in Eastern Europe is unpleasant. At best. It’s slow. It’s inconvenient. It’s loud. It’s bumpy. Take the bus instead.
From Budapest to Zagreb I took the train. Meant to be a leisurely 5-6 hour affair, it was closer to eight. After the first hour we were 20 minutes late. I’m not sure how that’s possible.
And we spent about an hour on a bus, going between train stations. Apparently they were working on the track? So we boarded a pair of busses to go this distance. The one I rode on was a real throwback. I could imagine old Tito being proud of it, but since then it had definitely seen some hard times.
But the rail is still good for night trips when you want to nap. It’s cheaper and more comfortable than the bus for that. I was on a night train from Belgrade to Skopje and it was delayed approximately an hour. That gave me more time to sleep.
Again, it was a car that probably saw pretty heavy use under the Marshal’s mid to late term. It had a sink, but it was corroded, rusted and stained. The beds were uncomfortable and old. The sheets were so heavily starched they didn’t fold so much as stack like wood. But I got a night of sleep for less than the cost of a bus trip alone and less than the day train and a hostel.
I suppose the lesson here is that you should know when and whre to use the trains here. Only use them when you want a slow, leisurely stroll through the country. And a cabin that smells like smoke. And a thirty year old mattress.



