Category Archives: Europe

Poznan, Poland

Poznan Stary Renek Z Wieczorek
It’s just after 10 here and the restaurant is becoming a bar. Poznan is a college town and the weekend starts on Thursday. More cigarettes are lit – Poland still allows people to embrace two vices at once. Ties slinker out, skirts hike up, somewhere a bassline thumps.

I’m eating at an outdoor tapas bar (no, not a topless bar) that has been bustling for a half hour. Gas flames fuel the night but soon the patrons will file inside and to the basement down the stairs that are likely to be narrow and somewhat uneven, leaving the patio a lonelier place.

But I’m working tomorrow. Maybe I won’t go to Berlin tomorrow night after all. I’m not ready yet to leave this country, and Poznan is a great place to make a last stand.

The State Of Polish Laundromats

There is one laundromat in Poland. It is in Krakow. That’s what I’m told at the desk of my hotel in Warsaw. “In Poland everyone has a laundry machine in their home. Not like in USA.” Well how about the other few dozen countries in Europe? Are there no laundromats there?

Maybe this is why Europeans have the reputation for smelling like they haven’t showered in weeks. I mean what’s the point if your clothes are going to stink?

So for the low, bargain, basement price of 76.5PLN (~$24) I can have three pairs of socks and three pairs of underwear laundered and returned to me tonight.

The alternative is to go to a hostel up the road. I can rent a dorm bed for 55PLN (~$17) and they’ll do all of my laundry for free. Then I come back in the morning and get it.

Back in Poland

I’m back in Poland, one of my favorite countries. It is vastly underrated by tourists (which is a good thing), though they’re wising up and coming more often (which is a bad thing). Every time I’m here I hear more and more English being spoken both by the natives and the travelers (which is both good and bad). It is home to some of the most beautiful women Europe has to offer and some of the friendliest and welcoming people I’ve met.

I arrived in Wroclaw at about 10am and headed to Magda’s house. She’s one of Jack’s cousins. We met and had some tea (herbata) and some snacks, as is the custom. And as is the custom she insisted that I bloat myself on the delights. After that I made plans to head to Krakow (pronounced Krakoov by the Poles) for the weekend since the weather was so nice.

I found the Mundo Hostel online and it looked good. It’s set on a quiet street just off the old town, on the way to the old Jewish section. I called and booked with them, promising to be there by 10pm, as my train was set to arrive at about 9. Well my train was an hour late leaving and couldn’t make up much time on the way (actually it was delayed more) so I called back and let them know since they made me promise I’d show up.

When I got to Krakow it was dark and I strolled around the old town for a bit looking at the sights. It’s a really pretty area. I went and checked into the hostel and asked if they knew any places that would be good to hang out on a Friday night. Anita and Michal (if you stop by tell them I said hello) were friendly and spoke great English and one thing led to another and we all sat down and chatted. I offered some of my Jameson that I’d brought from Dublin and we ended up talking all night, about politics, music, culture and the general state of the world. They also revealed that before I arrived they thought I’d be an old man who didn’t know what a hostel was and who would be upset about not having a TV and a phone and room service. Do I give off that impression?

One other thing we talked about was whether it was better to be blind since birth or to have had the sense at one time. Michal’s argument was that you wouldn’t miss seeing if you were born blind and therefore would be better off. My argument was that you could rely on your memories and, though you may miss seeing, you would be happier having once been able to appreciate the sighted world. I think his point of view boils down to: absence of feeling is better than pain. My position, however, is that pain is better than numbness. This is a basic philosophical argument to which there is no clear answer. Your view, I suppose, is based on your your tolerance for pain and your experience with loss. Can predictions be made from this hypothesis? I doubt it since there are only subjective measures of both. But I think it can give a heuristic premise from which to work.

With the sun threatening to rise we broke up the festivities and I decided I’d head to the Jewish area and get some pictures and maybe some breakfast. I stopped at the market and got some pickles and apples and bread and headed back. I passed out before I ate more than one pickle and one slice of the bread.

The next day was also gorgeous so I hung out in and around the old town, just relaxing and taking in the sights, smells and sounds. Time went by and day became night and I headed back to the Jewish section. There was a little bar called Propoganda that I wanted to go see. It was pretty cool with lots of crazy Communist era stuff on the walls, but there were too many tourists. I went to another place called Singer, named for the sewing equipment and it was cool, too, but with the same drawback. That’s the problem with the tourist towns, they’re overrun with tourists.

Sunday I headed back to Wroclaw to meet Magda, her daughter and Marysia, another of Jack’s cousins. We had Easter dinner together and had a great time. Monday we got up, had lunch and I was off for Warsaw and back to working life.

Galway Nightlife: A Quick Rundown

Blue Note. Cool place, reggae funk and other chill music. Lots of room but still cozy.
Quays. Very big but packed, even early. Established in the 1600s.
Massimo. Mid 30s, groups, loud beyond justification. Same type of music as Blue Note.
Bierhaus. Leffe blonde on draft, as well as quite a few others you usually don’t find in Ireland.
Roisin Dubh. Nice setting. Pub + acoustic coffee house type + live concert venue.
Galway Hooker Ale. Not bad, but a bit harsh.

The State Of Irish Laundromats

There are no laundromats in Ireland open past 5pm (so I’m told). They aren’t any open on Sundays at all. My fancy hotel is too good to do something as menial as laundry, they have it all outsourced. So I’m out of luck there. I’m on my last pair of clean everything important, so here are my options:

  1. Wash my clothes in the room
  2. Send my clothes out for dry cleaning (roughly 50 Euro) and hope they don’t starch my unmentionables
  3. Spend an hour driving to and from Dublin, 15 Euro for parking, and find a hostel (where they value cleanliness, unlike this hoity toity hotel) and do my laundry there – maybe cook some dinner while I’m at it.
  4. Buy new clothes and wait until I get to Poland (where they value cleanliness, unlike this hoity toity country)
  5. Wear dirty clothes (yes, including my unmentionables)
  6. Go naked

I chose 4 and 5. I got a couple of new pairs of underwear and five new sets of socks. That should last me a while. I’ll just have to wear dirty pants and shirts when I go for dinner.

From Ireland’s Galway Coast

I turned hard and the car bounded down the rutted lane of an old country road. I was following a sign I’d spotted but couldn’t read. This was the part of Ireland where the people speak little English and their signs speak none. The ruts ended in sand at a seaside cemetary. You could see what used to be the church, it’s stone skeleton draped in ivy having been long deprived of it’s wooden roof. Or maybe it had been thatch. Both were common here. The waves splashed the stones below, a silent movie, made so by the wind rolling down the hillside. The Celtic crosses stood defiant like lighthouses in the turbulent sea of emerald grass around them. Warning the living? The dead? I can’t say because these voices, too, spoke in the native tongue from which English has borrowed few words.
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Rock Star 3: Obama’s World Tour

The news is all aflutter with Obama news. The reporters get downright giddy when talking about him like they’re teenage girls and Obama is John, Paul, George and Ringo rolled into one. I half expect them to start weeping and rending their hair. OK, maybe that’s slightly exaggerated but you can’t help but feel like at least Ireland and England have a crush on the new President.

I’ve seen two different news programs call him a “rock star“. Didn’t McCain take a lot of crap for calling him a rock star in the campaign? Well he’s certainly a popular guy over here. It’s a nice feeling to have the world approve of my President (and by proxy, me) rather than hurl epithets at him (and by proxy, me). I notice a difference in peoples’ attitudes – mostly that they don’t take every opportunity to bash America and our politics. I just hope that the treatment doesn’t go to his head.

Oh look, more coverage of Obama. This one shows his car leaving Buckingham Palace 3 days ago. Wow, it’s shiny and black and the windows are dark and it’s got two flags. Here’s another one about Obama appealing to NATO to support the war on Afghanistan. The anchorwoman has a sympathetic voice, clearly she feels that NATO should help out. What a difference a year makes.

His picture is off the TV so I’ll get back to my point. So as I was saying, I hope all this praise and fawning doesn’t go to his head. Many rock stars lose their way after getting such treatment when on tour.

Obama is back on TV. No, I’m not kidding. The story about disagreements in NATO over the new head focus on Obama and his “road show” in town-hall meetings. Oh, there’s a mention of the point of the story – disagreements within NATO. Picture of Obama as they talk about Germany and Turkey arguing. Talking about one of Obama’s speaches now. The only time other world leaders have been mentioned are “so and so talked with Obama,” “this guy said hello to Obama and smiled,” “Obama knows this guy’s name,” etc.

Obama won a book award in London. Short story, but apparently the book was wonderful.

TV is off now. Obama warned North Korea not to launch their missile. No mention of what the missile is for, surrounding countries’ stance on it or North Korea’s stance. Just a short couple of lines.

OK they’re on to another topic. It’s too easy to get distracted. So I hope our President doesn’t lose sight of his primary objective: taking care of America. A lot of rock stars have gone that way. They forgot about the music and became the celebrity like Sammy Haggar or everyone from Metallica. Or they just went a bit nuts after their meteoric rise. Ozzy Osbourne, Michael Jackson, Keith Moon, Mick Jagger, etc. Or they felt like they couldn’t fail and put out a country album. I’m looking at you, Neil Young.

Mr. Obama, don’t let this happen to you. Remember, you have been tasked with helping us on this side of the Atlantic. Help get our economy back on solid ground, “establish Justice, insure domestic Tranquility, provide for the common defence, promote the general Welfare, and secure the Blessings of Liberty to ourselves and our Posterity.” Do us proud.

Failte Ireland

Welcome to Ireland. I landed on Sunday, last week. I got bumped out of coach and into business class so I had a great seat for sleeping. So I did just the opposite, of course, reading, eating and watching movies. I did manage to catch an hour or so but that wasn’t really enough and I slogged through the day tired.

First order of business when I landed was getting my rental car – no good public transit where I was headed. So I spent about 10 minutes trying to find the doorlock before I realized it, and the driver’s door, was on the wrong side. Oh yeah now I remember. They drive on the wrong side here, too. Right, now I’ve got that sorted.

Next stop was a shopping center to pick up a suit. My dry cleaner apparently went out of business and took my clean suit with him. Note to self, keep an extra suit clean for cases like these. The exchange rate is much better than my last trip here but it’s still not great. I found a good suit that looks great on me (if I do say so myself) but I paid a lot more than I wanted to. Ouch. Damn dry cleaner better not steal this one.

Next stop, the Amber Springs Hotel and Spa, in Gorey. Don’t be fooled by the name, it’s a hole. The Internets didn’t work in the first room I had but it does in the one from which I’m writing you. None of the rooms’ doors seem to close fully unless you pull them shut. I thought it was odd that the hallway smelled like mildew until I saw the large dark patch on the carpet indicating a leak from behind a wall. It’s been there all week so I assume it’s been there longer than that. It’s probably the hot water from my shower, as that seems to be missing. But being a spa, they at least help you get in shape. The elevators don’t work. I give it a half-star – the lone highlight being the sausage in the breakfast buffet.

It’s been beautiful and sunny here all week, but it started raining just in time for the weekend. Ah, lovely Irish weather. I’m heading to the west this weekend, out to Galway or Limerick or something. I’ve got a car I figure I might as well use it. Alright, off to dinner and a Guinness.

All Quiet On The Western Front

It’s been so long since I’ve posted anything that you’re probably thinking I forgot how. Or that I’ve been doing nothing exciting worth writing about. No, no it’s the opposite! I’ve been that busy doing cool stuff. I’ve got a couple of topics to come that I wanted to let you know about – and commit to them publicly so that I have to do them at some point.

American Tourister – Wherein our protagonist travels America with a tourist and sees things through her eyes. Locations include: Atlanta and its tourist sites, Disney World, Charleston South Carolina, San Antonio Texas, Philadelphia Pennsylvania, New York City and Boston Massachusetts. I won’t be able to stop myself from giving some commentary myself on some of those places.

You’re A Peon – I’m headed back to Europe for work, this time for 5 weeks straight! I’ll be spending a couple of weeks in Dublin, one in Poland (Warsaw and Poznan) and one in Frankfurt (am Main, not am Oder – in case you’re wondering). The remaining week I may be able to float around a little bit and see some other places or I may decide just to immerse myself somewhere and absorb the culture.

Transformers Rock

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