Category Archives: Europe

Stairway To Heaven

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Naked In The Rain

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Gdansk, Poland

Gdansk is an old city on the Baltic Sea in the north of Poland. Established by the Hanseatic people (who also built most of the Baltic states) in the tenth century, the city was formerly known as Danzig – not to be confused with the rock band. It was already several hundreds of years old when the Teutonic Knights turned it into a major port in 1308. Destroyed by the Germans in World War II, it was painstakingly rebuilt by the Polish who are rightly very proud of the city. It is still maintained well today. The attention to detail shows in the incredible architecture of the old city.

There are some really huge and impressive buildings here that transport you back to when they were originally constructed. The largest brick church in the world is one of those – it dates from the 14th century. These old buildings really stand out in the old town as they look so different from anything we have in the US and even in many other European cities which lost their Medieval buildings.

Two neighboring cities, Sopot and Gdynia are also quite old and picturesque. Sopot has been described as the Ibiza of Poland – for American readers, Ibiza is a Spanish island (in)famous for its nightclubs, ravers, wealthy European tourists and non-stop party culture. With tourists flocking to the seaside town in the summer months, the Tri-Cities (Trimiasto) area has become quite affluent.

Most of the tourists here are Polish, but there are also several groups of foreigners to avoid tripping on. Gdansk is a stop for some Princess Cruises so there are quite a few tourists roaming around who don’t know and aren’t terribly interested in speaking the language. I’m often mistaken for one of them. When I speak and order exclusively in Polish (it’s not that impressive, the words are written on the menus) I get English in reply. I suppose that’s to be expected, I am probably butchering the subtleties of the pronunciation.

There is an immensely tall tower in the church and I made the decision that I would climb to the top of it. It only cost 2zl to enter and 4zl to climb. Some sadist bothered to number the steps, which number over 300. Apparently the Polish tour guide has such helpful commentary as “at this point you’ll wish you’d quit smoking” and “here you’ll wish you’d gone to the crypt rather than the tower.” Yikes! The walk is quite strenuous, but even my overeating underexercised body was able to struggle through it. At the top you’re treated to a gorgeous view of the entire city and surroundings. Or I imagine you would be if there weren’t dozens of heads packed like sardines into a small observation deck. But I found that the worst part was the walk down the winding spiral staircase barely 3 feet wide. The gentle upward breeze carried the smell of hundreds of European tourists who have done strenuous exercise in an enclosed area in Summer.

Swedish Direction Debacle

Never trust a European for directions. In my experience, they tend to leave out important steps in instructions and have a poor sense of conveying direction. For example, when asking how to get to town from my hotel by foot, I was told “Take a right, right, then left at the big road and it will take you there along the footpath.” She didn’t know the names of the roads. And she neglected to mention that I would have to change footpaths and cross the big road. And she failed to mention that the big road was not the big road along which my footpath went. And she didn’t mention that the footpath on each side of the big road I was following stops. On one side it becomes impenetrable forest (meaning you have to backtrack 1/2km and go under) and on the other it becomes plowed fields with dirt that gets inside your sandals before giving way to a muddy tractor path.

The next person I asked for directions pointed me back the way I’d come and said that road would take me right there. When I explained that I’d been down that way with no luck and no signs telling me how to get to town, she pointed out the correct direction on the map – about 90 degrees away from the way she’d pointed. Unfortunately for me, she was covering up the fork in the road that I was to have taken. A kilometer or so later down the road with no sidewalk and a 30 degree tilt to the shoulder, I found a roadsign with a map on it, revealing the true path I was to have taken. At which point I was able to hop the railing, cut over to a road, and follow my best directional guess on how to get to town. It worked, too! Just as I realized I was on the right path with only a kilometer more to go, the rain began.

So when I got to town to meet my friends, I was dripping wet and three hours late. I went to an ATM and got some money to take the bus back to my hotel, but didn’t have any change for the driver. In my experience, the best place to get change is in a bar. After one beer I’d dried out a bit but it was still raining. After my second drink the rain had stopped so I went out to catch my bus. I checked the schedule and the map in the small area where I was waiting. Unfortunately, I didn’t know what stop I’d need to go to, only that I needed the end of the line. But which end? The next bus to come would be the last for the night. I decided I’d ask the driver so I turned around to wait…and watched the bus speed by. My fault for not jumping into the street I suppose. Taxi time. Fortunatley, I’d heard that taxis from the city to the hotel were cheap. 143 SEK ($24 US) later and I had been taken the 1.5 km in relative comfort.

Lonely Blossom

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Copenhagen, Denmark

Copenhagen (spelled Kopenhavn locally) is Denmark’s capital and largest city. It is situated on the straight between the European mainland and Sweden and historically was important because of this. Whoever controlled the straight controlled the trade on the Baltic Sea. Islands were built to ensure that cannonfire could be placed accurately on any ships that tried to circumvent the tolls on shipping. Now the islands are used for raves. Welcome to Europe.

In America, we all imagine Scandinavians (Denmark is a Scandinavian country) as being tall, thin, blond-haired, blue-eyed, beautiful creatures. But this is simply not the case – as with any stereotype it is simply not accurate. Fully fifteen percent of the Danes have dark hair. As long as you count “dirty blond” as dark.

The Danes ride bikes everywhere and at all hours. You can’t find a street or sidewalk in Copenhagen without a bike path beside it. This undoubtedly helps to keep them fit. You’ll see young and old riding around here on all varieties of bikes. From old rusty clunkers to last week’s sporty racer. The majority fall into the category of something that looks like it’s designed to be a reliable and sturdy daily ride. Kind of like an old Toyota or Ford. To be driven daily, with the natural patina that comes from pedaling around a city.

There are even rental bikes in special bike stands around the city. You deposit 20Kr (roughly $4 US) and you rent the bike. When you return it you get your mony back. I imagine that this was because there was such a large problem with people stealing the bikes to get at all of the 20Kr pieces. Haha, the clever Danes know how to protect their transportation! Likewise they adorn their bicicles with locks. It must be daunting for a thief to see a bicicle propped on its kickstand, lock firmly dangling from the handlebars or sitting around the frame in an unobtrusive way. It says “Look out! I could have locked this if I’d wanted!” Danish thieves have not figured out how to circumvent this protection yet, but I’m sure some day they will.

Asking a Dane if he or she speaks English is like asking if the sky is up. They speak impecable English with a British accent. In fact, sometimes it’s hard to tell if you’re speaking to a Brit who speaks Danish or a Dane who speaks English. The beauty of this situation comes when you realize that nearly no signage is in English. So in effect you have to meet someone every time you are required to read a sign. What a wonderful system! It’s a great way to become conversant with the locals.

In the stores, the Mannequins are frequently nude or nearly nude. In one window, the female mannequins were covered with plastic wrap. It was a clothing store. I went in and asked if I could have a job custom fitting the dresses but they said I couldn’t. In one window, two womenequins were wearing what looked to be towels made out of sheer material. And it is very cold in the windows of the store. So much so that even the plastic models show it – if you know what I mean. Many of the real women on the street have taken to imitating the models, going braless. Like I said, it’s a great society.

There’s a little part of Copenhagen called Christiania that claims to have separated from Denmark legally and established its own country. There are walls around with gates declaring that you’re leaving the EU. Good riddance! Christiania does use the Danish currency and speak Danish. But it more closely resembles a third-world hippie commune. And all of its inhabitants seem to be third-world versions of Danes. It’s an odd place that reminds me of many of the small impoverished towns in the Carribean. Dirt streets, broken glass and other discarded items used as decoration, and nobody seems to have anything better to do than to stand around on the streets and talk or wander. There is currently a movement within the government to shut the community down, but they’re not hurting anyone and they’re very much tucked away in their own little world so I say let them be. It’s not as if the place is dangerous and in fact it seems to be a very popular place to go for parents walking their children in strollers.

Final Packing Setup

I couldn’t quite fit everything into my bag that I wanted there and so I was debating about what to sacrifice. The biggest problems I seemed to keep running into was that the shoes I’m taking for the wedding are huge and heavy compared to the rest of my gear. They’re kind of a necessity and I sort of planned on dumping them after the wedding anyway (they’re Scandinavian anyway I think so it’s where they should be buried), so maybe I should just not bring them. But I figured the bride would probably kill me if I wore my dirty hippie sandals to the ceremony. What to do?

I finally decided that I’d just bring a bag of stuff to dump on the trip. I’m not packing up a bunch of things that are bad, it’s just that I have replaced them with newer things so I don’t mind leaving them. I’m considering shipping the whole thing back over to the US from Sweden, depending on the cost. The bag is one I got for free as a door prize. I put my shoes in there along with a white shirt that I don’t wear much anymore and the suit that I’m done with. And I shoved a bunch of candy in there, too. I had extra room.

With the shoes gone, I’ve got a ton more room in my bag. It is only about 2300 cubic inches (~37 liters) anyway and the shoes probably took up about 1/4 of that. Now all my essentials fit quite nicely in my DaKine Day Tripper that I had laying around from when I lived in Colorado.

  • Toiletries: toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, soap, washcloth, towel
  • Emergency Supplies: flashlight, first-aid kit, emergency blanket, twisty ties, plastic bags
  • 1 pair black pants
  • 1 pair zip-off khaki pants (double as swim shorts)
  • 1 pair cotton shorts
  • 5 pairs Ex-Officio underwear (clean)
  • 1 Greene Turtle t-shirt
  • 1 Coca-Cola t-shirt
  • 1 long-sleeve shirt
  • 1 black belt (so I can tell people I know Karate)
  • 1 Dell 700m Laptop (packed in a silicon bag from a fancy clothing store)
  • 2 small mesh clothing bags
  • 3 general reading books
  • 1 travel book
  • 1 Casio Exilim EX-V8 camera
  • 1 old cellphone that works in Europe

I did a few modifications to my gear, as well. First, I have attached to my pack a digital clock and thermometer as well as a bottle opener for the delicious European beverages. I attached the top part of my Osprey Aether bag to it – sure hope that doesn’t get lost or stolen. I also modified my travel book by taking only the parts that I wanted.

I bought a thick book on Eastern Europe back when I wasn’t sure where I was going to go on the trip. That doesn’t suit my purposes now; I’ll only be going to a few of the countries included. Luckily, the book was one of those that sticks all of the pages directly to the back binder with glue. So it’s easy to take it apart. Just bend the pages back until the front and back cover touch, exposing the glue, then use a knife to cut a straight line through the glue. Turn the book over to the binding side and slice where it’s bent. The book pretty much falls apart at that point, exactly where you want it to. If you’re trying to take a smaller section out, you can try the same approach, but you might end up with just a bunch of loose pages. Just staple those together and you’ll be good to go. I recommend putting all of the sections in a plastic bag to protect from the elements. To check out these modifications, check out this flickr set.

Some notable things that I’m not bringing are my Canon S3-IS, MacBook Pro, iPod, Shure headphones and iPhone. All of these things are expensive, add weight, and I’d be upset if I lost them. So why risk taking them? Sure I’ll be giving up some conveniences, but I figure it’ll give me a better chance of connecting with my surroundings rather than hiding from them. In the end I’ll appreciate the immersion more than the temporary respite.

Moons Over Europa

On July 8, I’ll be heading to Atlanta-Hartsfield-Jackson-etc. Airport as per usual. But the destination is unusual. I’ll be flying into Copenhagen, Denmark on an overnight flight and will arrive on the European soil the next morning. It’s been about 15 months since I’ve been to “The Continent” and it will be a great reunion.

So I’m preparing and packing up my things. I’m going very minimalist. I’m planning on packing one backpack, not as large as the pack I take on business travels for a week. I’ll be in Europe for two weeks or so. I’ll have to be really smart about what and how to pack. For example, I figure I can pack 5+ days of underwear, no socks, a couple of pairs of pants, a few shirts, and I’ll be good. That should all fit.

I’m debating on what technologies I should take. I’m definitely going to ditch the iPod and iPhone for books. They’re better travel companions for a trip like this. I’m debating taking a phone and a laptop. I’m pretty much sold on taking an old laptop that I’ve got around here. I’ve got it all tattooed up and ready to rock. And I’m fairly sure that I’ll bring along an old phone that I’ve got. I can put a new SIM card in it and use it all over the continent.

I’ll also need a camera and I think I’ll end up buying one of the really small Canon ones rather than lug my S3 IS around. It takes great photos but I want something that I can just stick in my pocket and not wory about. I want to take another look at the Casio cameras that are out now. I had one of these until somebody in a bar in Wilmington Beach, NC stole it. The biggest drawback was that it required you to drag along a docking station to charge it. But Casio has got some really great technologies. Like the EX-V8 that delivers 7x zoom, image stabilization and solid video compression in a tiny camera. They seem to have stopped selling it though. All of their current offerings are 3-4x zoom and don’t offer a manual mode. Looks like I’ll be heading to eBay.

I’ve got a wedding to attend – the excuse for the travel – so I’ll have to pack some kind of fancy clothes for that. I’m thinking about taking along one of my suits that I’ve been thinking of replacing. That way I can wear it and ditch it. I’m thinking I’ll give it a proper send-off and wearing it to the beach and running into the ocean. Photos of that will undoubtedly be hilarious.

My itenerary is as follows: Copenhagen for 1-2 days, 1 night; Lund, Sweden for 4 days, 3 nights; Poland (maybe Wroclaw for the Non Stop Festival); Lithuania; Latvia; Estonia; Finland; then I fly out of Stockholm on the 24th. That’s an awful lot of places to see in such a short period of time and I might end up revising it down to just a couple of countries.

I plan on avoiding the larger cities since it’s the European travel season. My dream would be to hitchike around and stay in some grandma’s room for rent where maybe 2 people in the town speak English. But I’m sure I’ll end up hopping on some trains and staying in moderately sized cities. So if I’m able to post regularly, you can judge just how accurately I’ve stuck to my intentions. And if I post just a summary recap, I’ll be able to assess my that on my own.